A tribute to the great wines of Burgundy

More than ten years ago, in 1997, when the great man was still alive, Jacky Rigaux, well-known Burgundian wine-writer, published a book on Henri Jayer. This book is essentially a Jayer guide to making great Burgundy. Around 30 percent of the tome consists of direct quotes from the great man, starting from the soil and continuing through to the end of the élevage.

What comes across is the perfectionism of [Jayer's] approach, his curiosity, and his willingness to learn on the job. It was this open-mindedness which made him a genius. It was his kindness, his more-than-willingness to pass on what he had learnt to subsequent generations, which made him the object of reverence throughout the Côte-d'Or.

This book should be essential reading: everyone, wherever they make wine, from wherever they drink wine, should want to understand why some wines are very well made, but not great, and why there are a few wines which make those of us who adore the stuff go weak at the knees in wonder.

Mr. Finkel... has done a grand job, and those of us on the outside should be well and truly grateful. His translation is deft and to the point; a credit to the original. This is indeed a labour of love.